December 3, 2000

Repainted the right side rear and both door window regulators. Painted the heater I pulled out. Cleaned up the right side glass frames. I saved the glass from the right rear to use as a possible pattern since it came out in one piece. Frames were rust pitted under the bottom channel, but in fairly good condition.

December 6

Measured the hood numbers for future reference. Opened up the Windscreen to check it out. Horror of horrors! The drivers side bottom channel is almost completely rusted out. Nothing was visible at all with the screen closed. So much for my rust free truck.

December 9

Used a paint stripper to peel the paint from the door and right side window frames. Then got a coat of primer on the right side frames. It got dark before I got any primer on the door window frames. They need a little bit of work to straighten out some dents anyway. Discovered the side window frames were originally chromed or more likely nickel plated. Made a pattern from the one remaining door window glass.

December 10

Shot the right side window frames with OD and their lower tracks with black luster (both the tracks and winder regulators were originally black, probably a lacquer). Straightened the door window frames with a hammer and a piece of 3/8" x 2" flat bar for an "anvil". I found that while the rear window frames were originally nickel plated, the door window frames were not. Thus they had quite a bit of surface rust and pitting. I used a brass wire wheel followed by my sander to clean up these frames. Shot them both with primer. I thought about filling the pits, but decided against it, favoring the character it gives over a brand new look.

After lunch I started the cleanup of the door window tracks. The regulator tracks were fairly well beat up and required some "body work" to get the rollers to run smoothly. Also discovered a couple of the rollers were a bit worn which necessitated mushrooming them over a bit more. Compared to what they started as, they're pretty sweet now. Found a strong case for Gordon McMillan's suggestion to use mastic on the lower tracks of the windows. One window had evidently been replaced early on and had mastic used on it under the normal rubber channel. After cleaning it out, I found a virtually rust free groove, where all the others had a great deal of rust and pitting. Definitely the way to go! Then I gave them a Muriatic Acid bath to cut the surface rust, before priming and painting them both.

To finish out the day I brought out the lower splash guards and started to clean them up. The left side wasn't too beat up, though someone had cut out an area just below the master cylinder evidently for access. I beat it back into a somewhat "straight" condition. I'll need to take it back out to the Carryall to see if the remaining bends are supposed to be there or if they are more "modifications". I looked at the right side splash guard next. Oh boy, if I had another handy, this one would go into the scrape heap! It is really beat up. I'm sure I can get it fairly straight again, but it's definitely going to be replaced at some point. I cleaned the bulk of the gunk off, but that only revealed more damage.

December 16

Pulled off the kick panels to see what's up with the left side door post. Looks like it's been totally separated from the floor, with only the outer skin holding the door post in place. It's been welded before but that also has broken. The body mount there is cracked in several places above the floor as well as at the wood block below. Looks like I may have to pull the body to do a proper repair. Discovered both door stays in the space behind the kick panels. Makes sense, someone pulls the pin to take off the door or whatever and the arm gets pushed back into the cavity where it stays until someone gets around to pulling the kick panel and has a feel inside, if ever.

Afterwards I pulled both doors, I'll take them back to my shop to weld up the fractures around the hinges.

Then I worked on the right side window boxes. Pulled the wood frame pieces, looked them over and determined that the oak they were fabricated from was still in very good condition. Sanded them down to remove the loose paint and gave them a coat of primer.

Last item for the day was the wind screen. With the amount of rust out on the bottom of the right side, I've got a bit of rebuilding to do. Load it up and take it back to the shop.

December 17

Sanded out the right side window boxes and interior above windows. Had hoped to get that section primed and painted but the sun left me. Sure are a lot of surfaces surrounding those windows.

December 20

Disassembled the carburetor, a Zenith model 29. After I cleaned out the mud daubers nest (hornets), it started to look something like a carburetor again.

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The accelerating pump was seized up pretty good, but after soaking it for a bit with WD-40, I managed to "unscrew" it from the well. The power jet valve requires a special tool to remove, something like a flat screwdriver with a slot cut out of the center. I tried vise gripping a couple of screwdrivers together, but I could see the shoulders of the brass valve start to give, so I gave up on it. Other than that most of the jets and other parts came apart fairly easily. I had already received the rebuild kit from Vintage Power Wagons, so I knew what parts I had available for replacements and what parts needed special care in disassembly. All of the subassemblies and various small parts were put into zip-lock bags and cataloged for reassembly.

The governor appears to be missing an adjustment shaft. I can determine what diameter it should be, but it's length is a mystery. I suspect without it the governor is useless. The Zenith manual I ordered from VPW doesn't contain the section for the governor (I'm missing the first 28 chapters), so it's going to be trial and error to get it to work properly.

December 21

Took the carburetor down to Tony at T.G.'s Automotive Machine Shop in Hawthorne, to have it boiled out. He said it'd be ready in the morning.

Disassembled the master cylinder. I thought it was dry, but the dust boot was full of brake fluid. Guess it had a better seal than the cups inside did. I'll take it down to Tony when I pick up the carburetor in the morning, to clean it up and hone the cylinder. I'll order a rebuild kit from VPW tomorrow.

December 22

I picked up most of the carburetor from Tony. The power jet valve was a bit of a problem, as he was removing it, the valve twisted in two leaving the threads in the bottom of the well. You could see the corrosion in there caused by years of sitting dry. The brass valve and the cast iron fuel bowl had reacted. I brought him the new power jet valve so he could determine the thread size and rethread the seat once the old valve was removed. He said it'd be ready Tuesday (after Christmas). I also left the Master Cylinder for him to hone out. When I got back to the shop, I did a quick inspection of the various parts. Everything looks real good.

I cleaned up the air cleaner. Didn't have any kerosene on hand so I used some gas out of the mower can to clean the element. It's in pretty good shape now, but I think I'll use some paint stripper on the exterior to take it down to the metal. It appears as though someone was a little too free with the OD paint, as there were runs everywhere on the sides.

December 23

Primed and painted the right side rear window boxes and roof sections above. Finally some relief from the flaking white paint inside. What a difference a clean coat of OD makes, it looks new again.

Removed the rest of the radiator shroud, and the mounting plate attached to the cross member. Cut off the two strange threaded rod pieces that were welded to the front cross member on both sides of the front engine mount. Fortunately they were welded only on one side so I was able to just grind them off. Haven't a clue as to their intended purpose.

December 24

Cleaned up the front cross member and the frame forward of it as well as the section along the right of the engine. Primed and painted the same. While cleaning the right side front spring shackle, I noticed the upper mount pin was painted red. At first, I thought perhaps it was painted red to mark the location of the grease zerk, but as I cleaned the other shackle pins, it appeared to be the only one. Then I noticed it was smaller than the other pins, the flat spot on it's shoulder indicated the pin was spun around about 10 degrees counter clockwise from where it should have been. The rear pins on both springs look also to be smaller and also spun around. I'm guessing at some point early on the springs and or the front axle were removed or replaced and they used a couple of smaller pins for one reason or another, and painted them red to remind themselves to change them to the correct size. Well they didn't get around to it. I'll see if I can get a couple from VPW.

Installed the wood framing around the right side windows.

December 25

Cleaned up the radiator frame and it's mount. Primed and painted them both.

December 26

Worked on the left side radiator shroud. Did a little grinding to smooth out some rough weld repairs. Sanded and primed.

Started reassembling the Zenith carburetor.

December 27

Finished cleaning the remainder of the carburetor parts. Used the tip cleaner from my gas welder to clean the ports on the various jets. Assembled the throttle body and governor. Still waiting for Tony to finish up the fuel bowl, should have it tomorrow.

Stripped the paint from the air cleaner, straightened a couple of the louvers and gave it a coat of primer.

December 30

Diagrammed, tagged and pulled the front brake lines. Pulled the front shocks. Cleaned the rest of the front cross member and the left side frame next to the engine. Then pulled the steering wheel in preparation of pulling the steering gear and column tomorrow. The steering wheel pulled much easier than I expected. Gave it a shot of WD-40, threaded the nut on until it was flush with the end of the shaft and then gave it a quick rap with my hammer. Loosened right up.

December 31

I had intended to pull the steering column today, but didn't bring a puller for the arm. So I switched gears and began pulling wire and accessories off of the firewall, in preparation for painting and rewiring.

When I pulled the fuel filter and emptied it, out poured the prettiest green fluid. Looked more like antifreeze, but it did have a faint aroma of gas, just not very strong. There was about 3/8" of sludge in the bottom, and the sides were covered with a green fuzz reminiscent of moss.
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The light switch is missing the pull out lock button and circuit breaker, will need to order a replacement. I also pulled the three switches that were mounted on the left side of the dash near the door. Only one had any wire still attached, and it went up the door post. I'm guessing they operated running lights and such.

I pulled a mysterious little switch off of the firewall just above the starter motor. It had an arm that would actuate the switch, but since it was positioned between the brake pedal and the accelerator assembly above the starter motor, I don't have a clue as to what it's purpose was. Possibly a replacement for the brake light switch (it was that type of switch). It had a hot lead wired to the regulator, but the other lead was cut, so no clue there. I'll need to test the old brake light switch on the brake line.

Primed and painted the back side of the front cross member as well as the left side frame back to the steering gear. It's the slow way to paint a frame, but I don't have the space to do a frame up restoration, so there you go.

Well that's enough for this year, we'll hit it again next.